![]() ![]() The materials tend to be cheaper, and the cameras can sometimes feel hollow and plasticky. Solid build quality: Superzooms may look like DSLRs, but they’re generally not built like them.We cast a skeptical eye on any camera that does significantly worse than that, and we heap praise upon those that overshoot the average. DSLR-shaped models tend to get around 350 shots on a charge, while smaller travel zooms have smaller batteries that last for only around 300 shots. Reasonable battery life: Most point-and-shoots have bad battery life, and superzooms are no exception.The best superzooms go beyond that, providing HDMI-out and ports for external mics and headphones. Some go further, with Bluetooth or NFC for simple pairing and passive, background image transfer. Lots of connectivity options: It’s 2020, so pretty much every camera has Wi-Fi for image transfer and remote control.Easy-to-navigate menus: In general, we prefer cameras with user interfaces that don’t require paging through tons of screens to get to the setting you need, and those that provide convenient “quick menus” that collect the most-used settings in one place for easier access.We give bonus points to cameras with smooth, silent video zoom and autofocus. High-quality video, preferably in 4K: Most superzooms capture video with at least 1080p resolution and 30 frames per second, but we prefer models with 1080/60p and especially 4K/30p options, since lots of people now have 4K TVs in their living rooms.We also like to see a deep buffer-meaning a lot of onboard memory and a fast processor-so those bursts can last for more than a split second before continuous shooting grinds to a halt. Fast burst shooting with a deep buffer: Thanks to their telephoto capabilities, superzooms are popular choices for action and sports photography, so we prefer cameras that are capable of shooting fast bursts-say, 10 frames per second or faster.The best electronic viewfinders use OLED displays for superior color and contrast. ![]() Even if you prefer to use the rear screen, a good EVF can be a real shot-saver when bright sun washes out the main display. A sharp electronic viewfinder (EVF): Holding these tiny, built-in displays up to your eye makes it much easier to stabilize shots when you’re using a superzoom’s longest focal lengths.It’s even better if a camera is customizable, so you can better set it up for your own shooting preferences, and if its controls are laid out logically for easier access on the fly. Manual controls and comfortable ergonomics: Superzooms are shaped like DSLRs, so they might as well make use of that real estate to give you useful buttons and dials.Some models have introduced different systems, such as Panasonic’s Depth from Defocus, to achieve quicker, more consistent results. Imagine the frustration of lining up a perfect shot of a bald eagle atop a distant pine tree only to see it fly away as your camera struggles to lock on. Fast autofocus: The contrast-detection autofocus systems that many superzooms employ sometimes struggle to focus at their longest zoom settings, where contrast can be reduced.Most of these systems are optical, meaning they use gyroscopes and moving pieces of glass within the lens to counteract your hand movement, but some combine optical image stabilization (OIS) with electronic image stabilization (EIS) for even more powerful results. Effective image stabilization: Since it’s very difficult to shoot clear photos at long focal lengths, superzooms require sophisticated image-stabilization systems.This time around, we extended the category to include shorter (yet still long) lenses with other desirable attributes, such as a wide aperture throughout the zoom range. A powerful lens: In past iterations of this guide, “powerful” meant a lens with 60x or greater zoom. ![]()
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